a welcome help
Published: Wednesday, December 13th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK AND VISITING ATLANTA IN JANUARY 2007. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT.
I AM ALSO IN LONDON ON THE 11TH JANUARY, PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME IN LONDON.
I AM WANTING TO USE CLOTH FROM MY LOCAL MERCHANTS, TO ENABLE THIS, I SHALL NOT BE USING THE FITTING ROOMS OF SCABAL WHEN I VISIT LONDON.
My eldest son Sean, is home on leave from the Army and has been a welcome help to me over the last few days.
Sean helped me for a while before deciding he wanted to join the Army and was pretty good at the tailoring. He was and still is a quick learner and definitely has the tailors eye.
I have a lot on at the moment so it has been a massive help having Sean working with me and surprisingly, Sean has not forgotten anything I taught him from over two years ago. I have been able to task him a job and leave him to it.
I have had quite a few alterations in from clients that have.......er, put weight on!.
The festive season has brought the dinner suits, best suits and fancy outfits into the open since last year and a few pounds have been gained since worn last year. I have had one in for reducing, all the rest are increases.
Mind what can I say, I have put a good few pounds on myself!!!.
As well as all these alterations I also have cutting, fitting and making to contend with and most of this cutting and fitting is required before Christmas.
I have had Sean on most things helping me. I taught him a bit of everything when he worked with me as I firmly believe anyone that you train should be able to cut and make the whole garment and be making it through, not giving it to out workers.
His needle skills are good so he has been doing a bit of finishing on jacket linings for me and trouser pockets etc.
The above picture shows Sean felling the linings back around the armholes of a jacket we have let out.
We removed the sleeves completely and let the side seams out including the chest, on both the cloth and the lining, then let the sleeves out including the lining again.
The sleeves are then re-basted back into the jacket checking the hang and look of the sleeves before I stitch them permanently back in to the jacket.
These are big alterations to say the least, and we have had quite a few of them!
The picture above is Sean hand felling the pocket bag to the pocket facing on a pair of trousers, and also doing the hand stitching on the outside of the pocket mouth. Because Sean has been helping me, I have had to 'feed' him his work, that is, make sure he has something at the same time as me, so he is not standing around waiting for me to finish my particular job.
Because of this, I have had to really get stuck in and work fast and also push him along at a fairly brisk pace to keep the momentum, but never compromise the quality, that is number one always.
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i could not resist it!
Published: Wednesday, December 13th 2006
I could not resist having this stew for my breakfast the other day. The night before I had made the dinner, a beef in ale stew.
I had simmered it all day, beef, carrots, onions and mushrooms in 2 pints of beer, it was great.
When I got up the next morning it was freezing cold outside and there was still some of the stew left over, that was it, no choice it was straight on the gas and ate for breakfast with crusty bread.
Just the job at 06.45am!!
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hip flask walking club!
Published: Friday, December 8th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK AND VISITING ATLANTA IN JANUARY, PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME.
I AM IN LONDON ON THE 11th JANUARY, PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME IN LONDON.
On the 28th December the Hip Flask Walking Club will be having its annual trek to blow some of the christmas excess off.
It is a walk that was started by some of my friends and former colleagues from the ACF and has become an annual pilgrimage.
The walk starts at Grindleford in the Peak District, and ends at the Cheshire Cheese pub, after going up the back of Wnin Hill in Hope. Several libations later, the group, which can be 4 to 24 strong, moves to the Old Hall public house in Hope.
When the timing is perfect literally to the second! it is then a mad dash the 1 mile to the railway station to catch the last train to Sheffield.
Some hardy souls from the Doncaster arm, will have a couple of quick ones in the Railway Tavern in Doncaster, the finest ale hostelry for miles ( where I shall be tonight ) before heading home!
It is a most enjoyable day to meet old friends. This is an open invite to any readers of this blog who would like to come and join this world exclusive walking club on the 28th for our 'ramble'!
If anyone would like to join us, please email me and we can sort the timimgs. See you there!!
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finished made to measure
Published: Wednesday, December 6th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK IN JANUARY 2007, AND VISITING ATLANTA. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ME WHEN I VISIT.
I AM IN LONDON ON THE 11th JANUARY. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME IN LONDON.
I have finished another one of my made to measure suits for a client yesterday.
I have today just finished the hand work on this jacket, hand sewing the armhole lining, hand sewing the edges of the jacket and hand drawing ( sewing ) the collar.
I documented this jacket a little while back when it was at the cutting and fitting stage.
There were three suits in total, two gents suits and one ladies four piece suit.
I have finished and delivered the other gents suit which was well received by the client, and was his first made to measure anything.
The picture below shows a portion of the right side of the jacket.
This particular fabric is a super 150s blend cloth from one of my local Yorkshire merchants and is much more substantial than the super 150s from the big merchants, Scabal.
I don't know why there is this difference to the cloth as I am no expert on cloth composition, It is obviously down to the fibres of the yarn to make the cloth, but yet the cloth feels as soft as any from Scabal in their 150s range.
This particular cloth also cuts, makes, drapes and finishes better than the Scabal cloth but that is only my opinion.
The jacket is not pressed off yet, ( the final pressing before delivery to my client ) I shall be doing the pressing first thing in the morning.
The edges have been hand stitched by me at this point and the collar to facing has also been hand drawn/stitched.
The picture below shows the left side of the jacket.
The jacket is a little bigger than the dummy at 42" chest and the dummy is 39" chest.
The jacket is a single breasted button 2 front with a long lapel, I must admit I do like to make a slightly longer lapel as it gives a great look to the front of the jacket.
This jacket has side vents, with slightly slanting front pocket flaps, a top out breast welt pocket and 4 real button holes on the cuff.
Remember this is a fused jacket as all my made to measure suits are, but this jacket is soft and as clean as a whistle.
I have no problem with using fusing for my made to measure suits, I am not in such an arrogant position as some to say it is nothing more than total rubbish making garments this way.
I am not so presumptuous to also think every one that comes across this website has £1,800+ to throw at a suit and if you haven't look down my nose at you as inferior, it is horses for courses.
My made to measure suits are a perfect option for my clients that do not want to jump straight into expensive fully bespoke clothing.
When I tried the client on with this jacket the first comment my client made was on the softness of the jacket and the feel of the cloth.
Nothing has been lost really with fusing this cloth.
Though many that have very little or no experience at all with fusing will surely tell me differently!
This is the inside of the jacket, a beautiful red paisley lining a real good quality one.
Bright linings are not to everyones taste but are a nice addition and a personal touch to something you are having created solely for you, so why not!
I have today prepared the second fitting for my female client who is the wife of the owner of the above suit.
I shall try and deliver this suit tomorrow and give her the second fitting with her suit.
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new york, atlanta, london
Published: Sunday, November 26th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK AT THE END OF JANUARY 2007, IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT TO SEE ME, PLEASE EMAIL ME.
I AM ALSO LOOKING AT ADDING ATLANTA AS A CITY TO VISIT WITH MY TAILORING, IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN SEEING ME IN ATLANTA, PLEASE EMAIL ME.
I AM IN LONDON ON THE 11th JANUARY 2007, PLEASE EMAIL, OR TELEPHONE ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT TO SEE ME ON THIS DATE.
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measured friday, fitting for saturday
Published: Friday, November 17th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK AT THE END OF JANUARY, IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ME, PLEASE EMAIL ME.
I AM ALSO IN LONDON ON THE 11th JANUARY, PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT TO MEET ME.
I have had a client visit me today who lives in Frankfurt, Germany.
He is a new client to me and visiting the UK for the short term but is a Yorkshire man born and bred.
We had spoken briefly on the telephone and via email regarding making a suit for him.
We firmed up the order and as Rob already knew the fabric he wanted, I ordered the cloth ready for our next meeting from the selected merchant.
We decided it would be easier and a sensible way to go if Rob was measured on Friday and returned on the following day the Saturday for a first fitting.
However as with everything in tailoring my day has had a few developments added to it and has ran something like the following.
The appointment with Rob was for 10.30am today and Rob was bang on time.
We had finished our fitting for 11.50am which was perfect as I then had a radio interview for BBC radio Sheffield to do at 12 noon!
I finished the interview for the radio at at 12.55pm which was just in time for Nigel who is a very good client of mine to turn up at 13.15pm.
Nigel left me at around 13.45pm and just as I was about to start Robs pattern and suit another client Richard turned up at 13.55pm and left at 15.25pm.
I finally started on Robs alterations and got Robs patterns altered and re-cut his suit which is a very nice two piece navy with faint red stripe the cloth being from LBD.
When we first sorted the order out I thought yes plenty of time to get the patterns made cloth cut and suit fitted up, I will have all Friday afternoon, hmm. I have literally just finished fitting up the jacket!
I will have to make an early start with the trousers tomorrow.
Picture below is me marking the jacket in prior to cutting it out.
This picture shows the canvas for the above mentioned jacket.
I had a discussion today with Rob regarding the construction of the jacket and settled on a canvas that is not too soft, but not firm either a canvas just in between the two.
My client is slim but has a good chest which you can see with the canvas on the table.
The canvas is on the table the way it will be in the jacket so you can see the shape at the chest.
This last picture shows the jacket baisted together ready for the first fitting tomorrow which is Saturday.
The jacket has NO padding in the shoulders at all, Rob did not ask for me to make it this way but I just felt the jacket might carry no padding as I made the fitting this afternoon, we shall see at the fitting how we go.
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my new york visit
Published: Sunday, November 5th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK AT THE END OF JANUARY 2007. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ME.
ARE THERE ANY PEOPLE IN ATLANTA THAT WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME? I SHALL ADD IT AS A REGULAR DESTINATION IF SO.
I AM IN LONDON THE 11th JANUARY, PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT FOR THE DATE IN QUESTION.
I returned from my New York visit, Thursday 1st November.
Firstly, I would like to thank everyone that ordered a suit, or called to see me to 'suss me out'. I am booking my return for the end of January beginning of February 2007, same hotel. The Benjamin.
It was an experience and an ambition achieved to travel to New York with my tailoring. I will document the making of a couple of the suits, if my clients allow, without head shots. My photography is lousy any way, so it should not make a difference to miss the heads!
Thanks to the lads I met on Saturday from the London Lounge and other forums on my arrival day. It settled me in having dinner and a pint with you. It was another first, japanese food. It tasted even better when you picked up the cheque! Thank you. I shall return the favour when I return.
The first picture is the Empire State Building, taken on my last day as I shopped for presents for my children. The second is one of the many churches I saw in New York, I did know the name, but have forgotten. If anyone knows which one let me know, I will add the name.
Thanks to everyone that has informed me, the church is St Patrick's Cathederal, near the Rockefeller Centre, 5th Avenue.
This third picture is me on my balcony. I could not get a shot out over the city because of the sun, it was too bright. The weather was fantastic.
The poppy on my lapel is for Armistice Day, the end of WW1 and is a big thing in England. I shall be at the Cenotaph next Sunday as usual and having a drink afterwards with friends and former military colleagues, toasting the health of friends departed. The poppy caused more than the occasional glance from the New York locals.
I was up at 6am Sunday and went for a walk to clear my head and shake the jet lag off. I walked down to and along the river to this bridge, 59th st bridge. It was chilly but fresh, a perfect morning to have a quick look around.
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you know when you're getting old
Published: Tuesday, November 14th 2006
I AM IN LONDON 11th JANUARY, IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE AN APPOINTMENT, PLEASE EMAIL ME.
You know when you're getting old as the road racing bike goes, and you replace it with a 'sit up and beg' bicycle.
This is exactly what has happened to me!
After my beautiful Masi road bike was recently pinched I had the choice to replace it with another road bicycle or was it really the time for me to have a more practical bicycle?
Lets see, road bike:- hard saddle, toe clips, drop handlebars, leaning ride position etc etc. Versus hybrid:- comfortable saddle with a suspension post, upright cycle position, mudguards, to keep my suit clean going to the pub, a rack for the odd bit of shopping, front suspension to help with the potholes in the roads etc etc.
The choice was easy, a new sit up and beg. Picture below shows me with my new Claud Butler machine ready to go out for my first trial run with my youngest son eleven year old Tom.
I can report back after my trial run that life is not all bad and this bicycle is akin to riding a comfortable armchair!!
I have had several emails regarding my front wheel, yes, I have turned the front wheel the wrong way when I tightened the handlebars.
To make it worse I had rode several miles before correcting them!! I was absolutely p......g myself with laughter when this picture was taken!
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armistice day
Published: Saturday, November 11th 2006
NOVEMBER THE 11th, ARMISTICE DAY.
WE WILL REMEMBER THEM.
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first draft pattern for usa
Published: Sunday, November 5th 2006
This picture shows the first draft pattern I have cut today for one of my New York USA clients.
A draft pattern is a pattern that is created specifically for you only, from your measurements I take from your body, this pattern is unique to you and only you.
I had plenty of other things to do before I made this pattern but it is such a milestone for me visiting the US I could not wait to get one drafted.
You can see on the left of the picture the back section of the jacket on the very bottom.
The the forepart or jacket front is laid on top of the back section and finally the panel or sidebody on the very top.
To the right of the picture are the sleeve patterns to the jacket the under sleeve is on the top with the top sleeve below it.
I am returning to New York to see my clients at the end of January 2007.
And even though this visit is three months away it will not matter that I have already drafted this pattern now as the only measures I have for the client are the ones I have taken while I was in New York.
There are no more measures to add to the ones I had taken, nor will there be any amended measures to work from.
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