american prices and a change to my us tailoring process

Published: Sunday, December 9th 2007

I had my first trip to America to see if I could do anything there just over a year go.

In the twelve months that have passed since then I have returned to America five times and added Atlanta as a regular destination!

The past year has been a steep learning curve as visiting the US so frequent is fine if you do not make your own work.

But as a cut and make tailor I have struggled with the schedule to maintain such a frequent US presence and keep my UK clients fully serviced.

So next year 2008 I shall only be visiting the USA three times within the year.

I did cap my suit prices earlier in the year to try and make it a fairer playing field for my US clients, there is nothing wrong with this, but the price has to be correct.

My suit prices were fixed far too low so I am now uncapping my prices I am keeping the same price in the USA as I receive from my UK clients.

Delivery costs of finished garments to the USA also have to be added to the suit balance.

I shall continue to offer an adjusted price for US ( and UK ) clients who provide me with their own fabric for me to make up, but the cloth must be posted by the client to my workroom in the UK.

I can't bring cloth lengths back in my luggage as I keep getting stiffed by the airlines on the weight of my bags!

I am of course more than happy to be paid in UK Sterling.

Even with this change my suits are still much cheaper than my competitors by a long way, as good as most of them, and much better than some.

After reading the above please remember that you are commissioning a suit from a tailor that will be making your suit from start to finish with no out workers, which is the purest form of tailoring there is.

Compare this to the way other tailors make your suit, with many out workers involved in the whole process.

I am also changing my fitting process for US clients, instead of a SKELETON BASTE, I shall be going straight to a POCKET FITTING, this is in between a skeleton and a forward.

I shall still be giving two fittings to clients if I think they need two.

The reason for this is simple, I have not turned my US garments out quicker by visiting the US more frequently, in fact the reverse has happened, it has slowed the turn around down.

I would like make it clear to anyone that has contacted me ALREADY about meeting me on my next US trip, which will be January, there will be no price increase, anything ordered will be at the OLD prices.

I am also close to not taking on any more US clients at the moment, so PLEASE let me know at your earliest if you would like to meet me while I am on my US travels.

(Comments: 0 | Permalink)

some tweed and other things

Published: Monday, December 3rd 2007

Please note I am in London Friday the 7th and Saturday the 8th December.

Please email or telephone if you would like to meet me while I am in London

des@desmerrionbespoketailor.com 0798 0541 235

Here are some pictures of the tweed jacket I mentioned on an earlier 'blog' posting under the title 'Recent Tailoring And Family Trips'

As I mentioned on the entry, this is an odd jacket, and fused construction. The last picture in the entry was of the jacket ready to try-on, and the fitting had been conducted.

The pictures below show some of the various making stages of the jacket. The jacket is now finished.

The picture below shows the left forepart, but it now has the patch on the front, and the breast welt inserted.

The next picture is a closer shot of the patch pocket.

I machined this patch pocket on very close to the edge of the made pocket, then hand stitched the edge all the way around to give a flat appearance to the pocket.

I usually 'bluff' the patch pockets onto jackets when I make them, but this cloth was a little thick to get a sharp finish.

The inside of this pocket is double lined so there is no cloth showing on the inside of the pocket, or felt by the hand when in the pocket.

The next picture shows the left forepart. Gorge dart and breast welt are clear, as is the basting for the canvas chest piece.

The chalk mark across the shoulder is the inlay, 1". The jacket is waiting for the lapels to be under basted in position, then sewing around, and finally out basting.

The next picture shows the lapels made and out basted, the front edges made and basted, and the lapel set in position.

The next picture shows the inside lining to the jacket.

I was asked to deviate from my normal default way of how I usually make my in-breast pockets, in preference for the one pictured here.

I have no problem, nor is it an issue for me, to change the way I make anything to ensure I give my clients what THEY want, so long as it does not look ridiculous!

I have always known this particular style of pocket with the extra cloth piece, as a 'Guisborough Wedge'

The next picture shows the jacket finished on the dummy, in my workroom. Again, there is nothing in the shoulders.

The next picture shows a finished jacket I have recently completed for a client.

The cloth is 13oz all wool, grey with a nice soft stripe. Nothing in the shoulders!

I have only put this picture on because I love the roll of the lapel, a strong roll, a clean chest with very little drape is how I preferred to cut this jacket for my client.

The next picture shows Julie my daughter Louisa and my Dad at his home near Gainsborough, Lincolnshire.

The next picture shows Thomas on one of our days out.

This picture was taken at Whitby as we made our way down the steps from the Abbey at Whitby. Whitby Harbour is in the background.

The next picture shows Thomas at my local target shooting range.

I organised an open day to raise some money for the club, we had archery as a background activity in between the shooting, Thomas loved the archery.

The next picture shows Batman returning my car from the valet after cleaning.

The reason he was dressed as Batman, it was actually Halloween and if the staff didn't dress up, a forfeit was due.

I have NO idea what Batman has to do with Halloween either!!

It was nice to see a real Super Hero though!

So there it is, some more of what's been happening lately.

(Comments: 1 | Permalink)

the finished jacket, cloth i love

Published: Sunday, December 2nd 2007

Please note:- I am in London Friday the 7th and Saturday the 8th December.

Please email, or telephone me if you would like to meet me while I am in London.

des@desmerrionbespoketailor.com 0798 0541 235.

Here are some pictures of the finished jacket I have recently made, and wrote about under the title ' I Love This Cloth'.

The first picture shows the collar portion on my pressing buck. I have just pressed the leaf edge of the collar.

This is also a good picture to show the shape of collar, and lapel step I make.

You can clearly see the shape to the leaf edge of the collar, the outer edge to the left on this picture.

The next picture shows a closer shot of a portion of the collar and lapel. I have also made this a larger picture so you can see the beauty of the cloth.

The next pictures show me pressing the chest and shoulder area of the jacket. Don't worry, it's not on fire, just the steam from my iron!

The next picture shows the jacket on the buck, I have just 'set' the sleeve, smoothed the jacket front and 'set' the lapel roll.

You can see in this picture the belly of the lapel on the right of the picture, the gentle curve on the front edge.

This is probably my only 'signature' on the garments I make.

The next picture shows the jacket on the dummy, there is nothing in the shoulders of this jacket, another Neapolitan Shoulder.

I am making more and more of these shoulders, so I should probably say this is also one of my signature features.

I shall keep on saying, jackets made this way are so easy to wear and are my own personal favourite.

I have included this last picture which shows the lapel roll I have put on this jacket.

The picture was taken straight up towards the roof of the workroom, the camera, sorry, phone! was just laid flat against the cloth front.

I decided to give this jacket a good old fashioned strong lapel roll, as the cloth deserved it, and could easily carry it.

You can see from this angle, the lovely roll of the lapel, and the hand button holes.

You can also see, just to the right of the picture, the shape of the chest on the jacket.

I can't wait to make my own jacket in this cloth, when this will happen is a different issue.

(Comments: 0 | Permalink)

not always the case

Published: Sunday, December 2nd 2007

I do like to look into other tailoring websites from time to time.

I am not in the fortunate position to have trained on Savile Row, so I rarely meet other tailors or craftsmen that are in the trade.

Without being able to talk to any-one else within the trade, looking at other tailoring websites, even for general information, helps to keep me abreast of what's going on within the tailoring world.

Almost everything I look at on the other tailoring websites, the REAL tailors websites, not the farm it out, engineered garment, sold as Bespoke, never had a thimble on in my life brigade! is very enjoyable to see and read.

But one thing that struck me the other day while looking through one of these other tailoring website is some of the information is not quite correct, or is quoted as "this is the way it should be done, if it looks different from this, it's not Bespoke".

One example which I have seen quoted a few times on various websites is this " if your jacket lining looks like this at the corner, it is ENGINEERED and not Bespoke" quote. ( see picture below )

I can see why this has been said, as this is the standard way ready to wear garments are usually finished at this point on the jacket.

Comments like these do annoy me though, they are usually quoted by tailors that have been taught how to make a garment one way only, and that way is LAW!

The true fact is you can go into 10 different tailoring workrooms, see 10 different workmen all making garments different ways.

However the finished outward appearance of the 10 finished garments is practically the same.

This is just one example of this.

The next picture shows this jacket is not an engineered garment, it was made the same as all my Bespoke jackets, the full open coat method.

It is purely that I prefer to finish the bottom of my facing in this particular way, it detracts nothing from the jacket, or the quality of the jacket.

You can see the lining is hand felled, and in my opinion, which is why I do finish my facing this way, it is neater AND less bulky at this point.

There is no snipping of the cloth facing to turn under and fell, or the chance a raw edge of the snipped facing creeping out onto the outside, or seen side of the jacket.

(Comments: 0 | Permalink)

I shall be in london friday the 7th and saturday 8th december

Published: Friday, November 30th 2007

I shall be in London to see clients on Friday December the 7th, and Saturday the 8th.

I have a tight schedule, but if any-one would like to meet me to discuss any tailoring requirements they may have, I will be pleased to meet.

If any-one is interested, please let me know ASAP, all my contact information is on this website.

(Comments: 0 | Permalink)

a unique cloth

Published: Wednesday, November 28th 2007

I ordered this cloth earlier in the year, and it arrived a couple of months back.

It is an exclusive cloth that was woven for the London Lounge, only a VERY small quantity was woven.

I put myself down for 10 metres, some for me, and some to pass onto potentially interested clients.

I am sure the cloth is 13oz in weight, a nice brown with a red overcheck. The actual size of the check pattern makes this fabric a classic to my eye.

The first picture below shows the cloth just as it was sent to me from the Mill.

The next picture is a closer shot of the cloth, and the selvedge with the London Lounge Limited Edition legend.

The above picture is a better reflection of the fabrics true colour.

I have one spare jacket length of this cloth, but it is only available to existing clients, sorry!

However, if a new client wishes to purchase this last jacket length, I would be only too happy to make it into a stunning jacket for them.

If any of my clients may be interested in this fabric, please let me know.

(Comments: 0 | Permalink)

i love this cloth!

Published: Wednesday, November 28th 2007

I am very lucky to be able to keep saying this, but I have been very busy lately making lots of garments in superb fabrics.

I am sure when I consult with clients, discussing the benefits of this fabric over that one, that occasionally my client thinks I am saying anything for a sale!

The reason I say this is because I just LOVE cloth, there is nothing else to it!!

I genuinely mean it when I say to clients I think the fabric they have have chosen, or may be considering, is fantastic and will be beautiful when finished.

I often find myself saying "oh, yes I have had that one myself", or, "yes that would be perfect, lovely"!

Fabric is a real passion of mine, not the actual making of which I know very little, but the textures, colour, feel, and other endless things I love about cloth.

And the pictures that follow below make everything above make sense.

The reason is, this fabric is just ANOTHER example of my love of cloth, good cloth with real character.

No, It is not mine, but one that a client chose for himself for an odd jacket.

I knew it was a good choice for him colour, texture, durability etc and all the other tailoring boxes I tick for clients with my head and not my heart.

It was not until I actually got the cloth onto my cutting table that the decission was made, I must have a length for myself!

I need another cloth length like I need a hole in the head, but my sheer love of cloth made it impossible to resist, again!!

Many may see this cloth as a plain Jane, a 16oz grey herringbone all wool from my local cloth merchants, but not me, I see a stunning cloth.

It is from the same bunch as my most favourite jacket of all time, the jacket I made myself for America

Make your own mind up from the pictures.

(Comments: 3 | Permalink)

donegal fabrics

Published: Friday, November 16th 2007

As a follow up to the last article with cloth for sale.

I am also publishing pictures of 3 really nice Donegal Tweed cloths I am also selling.

I do not have much of these cloths, so first come first served if any-one would like any.

The pictures are below, the weight of the cloths are 12oz, and are again about 20 years old. The first one is a Worsted Donegal, very smooth, lovely blue colour.

The other two are classic Donegals, slightly rougher to the feel with raised 'slubs' and a multi coloured mottled effect.

Two of these are Holland and Sherry vintage. Cost £55 per metre.

I am keeping one length in each cloth for myself.