who says shorter people should not wear large checked patterns?
Published: Saturday, February 16th 2008
I AM RETURNING TO AMERICA EARLY MARCH, PLEASE CLICK THIS LINK:- AMERICA FOR MY DATES.
I saw a client friend of mine last week to conduct two jacket fittings with him.
One cloth was a Porter and Harding fabric, the other was a London Lounge exclusive fabric, the Best of Both lambswool.
The next two pictures show a front shot and a back shot of the London Lounge 'Best of Both' jacket on my client.
The cloth is a lovely weight, and very soft. But the main thing is the balance of the check pattern on the cloth, it is perfect to my eye.
My client is around 5' 6"- 5' 7" tall yet the cloth suits his figure perfectly, who says large check patterned cloths should not be used for short clients?
On a different note, my thoughts on some of the comments that have been lingering round on various open forums.
Do not fall into the trap of believing all the bumph that is going around at the moment on these various 'forums' given out by the armchair experts and self proclaimed Gods of the tailoring world.
Let me tell you I will work with anyone and pull out all the stops to deliver the best I can, I welcome and encourage dialogue between tailor and client.
The forum I do recommend if you want to learn more is www.thelondonlounge.net/ Most of the stuff posted is from people that really care about Bespoke.
Trust your tailor, if he is good he will look after you and always make you look a million dollars.
Any way back to the issue at hand, cutting and good tailoring are the key in this department big time to balance a checked cloth with the shorter figure, it is why the sensible people go to tailors!
I have cut these jackets slightly different from how I normally cut jackets for this client. I have cut the chest cleaner, but with a slight amount of drape, opened the front quarters of the jacket up and placed a slight amount of wadding in the shoulders. We normally have nothing in his shoulders at all.
We both agreed, and more importantly my clients wife did! that we all liked the look of the jackets and have nothing to alter.
You can see on the back picture that I do not cut a back with lots of drape, I cut a small armhole so the jacket does not need excessive drape to allow free forward motion of the arms.
Both the jackets below went from cutting straight to the stage you see here, the London Lounge cloth just needs all the hand finishing doing now, the collars, linings, jacket edges etc all hand sewn.
The next pictures show a Porter and Harding cloth on my client. I ran out of time to get this coat to the same stage as the London Lounge one, so it is really at a pocket fitting stage.
The lapels have not been padded, all the seams are basted together, and there is no lining near this jacket, just the breast welt pocket and jeted flap pockets inserted.
The canvas I used for both these jackets is slightly heavier than my normal canvas to give a nice clean fitted chest with some form to the chest area.
This coat is one step behind the other in stage of make but it is cut exactly the same as the one pictured above.
The Porter and Harding cloth is a lovely colour, it is a shame the blue overcheck does not come through as it is lovely.
The picture below shows one of the hand padded canvas's I made for these jackets.
You can see the shape for the chest I have created when making the canvas, the form for the chest is round and makes the canvas 'sit up' on the table the way it is worn on my client in the jacket pictures here.
If you look at the above canvas and the jacket worn by my client ( the above picture ) you can see the shape to the chest from the hand made canvas, it has quite a lot of shape.
The ruler gives an idea of the amount of form, or shape I have made for these canvas's.
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