altering overcoat and my america dates
Published: Saturday, February 9th 2008
I AM BACK IN THE USA EARLY MARCH, VISITING NEW YORK AND ATLANTA, PLEASE SEE THIS LINK:- AMERICA FOR MY SCHEDULE.
PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME WHILST I AM IN AMERICA. des@desmerrionbespoketailor.com
Here are a few tailoring bits I have been doing lately. I am lucky to be very busy at the moment.
I think this year will be up and down for all tailors, regardless of what any others within the trade may say.
I had to do some alterations to an overcoat I recently made for a client. I met him on my last trip down into London to assess the overcoat.
The fist picture shows the overcoat, a cloth woven and finished in Yorkshire and around 18oz in weight, so not the real heavy overcoat stuff but a lovely cloth and fit for the job.
The next picture shows a close shot of the velvet collar step, and lapel. This seam with the cloth and velvet has been hand sewn together.
The next picture shows the gauntlet cuff of one of the sleeves. The gauntlet has been stitched a little more than 1/4" from the edge by hand to match the stitching on the front of the coat also.
The buttons are real horn and are a matte finish as opposed to polished. My own preference is matte horn buttons over polished as they are easier to tell apart from plastic imitation ones.
The vertical yellow stripe and blue horizontal one, did both match the sleeve when I first made the overcoat.
Because one of the alterations was to shorten the sleeves, when I replaced the gauntlet cuff I could not replace it in its original position. If I had more cloth I would have re-made the gauntlet to match.
The next picture is a close up of one of the front real horn buttons on the overcoat.
The beauty of real horn is because it is a 100% natural product, the colours and marbling effect varies from one button to the next, making them unique.
The next picture shows a little bit of the lapel and the hand stitching on it I mentioned earlier.
The above picture is a true reflection of the cloth colour, the one below makes the colour appear too blueish.
The last picture shows the lining inside the overcoat, and as this client had already ordered from me previously he wanted to keep the same lining as his suit I had made him.
Lots of my clients once they find a lining they like, normally stick to the same colour with many subsequent garments they may have made.
Well spotted GBR! ( see comments, the above picture was missing )
As with all bespoke garments when you have anything made the pocket decision is down to the client. This overcoat just has the 2 inbreast pockets.
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