not always the case
Published: Sunday, December 2nd 2007
I do like to look into other tailoring websites from time to time.
I am not in the fortunate position to have trained on Savile Row, so I rarely meet other tailors or craftsmen that are in the trade.
Without being able to talk to any-one else within the trade, looking at other tailoring websites, even for general information, helps to keep me abreast of what's going on within the tailoring world.
Almost everything I look at on the other tailoring websites, the REAL tailors websites, not the farm it out, engineered garment, sold as Bespoke, never had a thimble on in my life brigade! is very enjoyable to see and read.
But one thing that struck me the other day while looking through one of these other tailoring website is some of the information is not quite correct, or is quoted as "this is the way it should be done, if it looks different from this, it's not Bespoke".
One example which I have seen quoted a few times on various websites is this " if your jacket lining looks like this at the corner, it is ENGINEERED and not Bespoke" quote. ( see picture below )
I can see why this has been said, as this is the standard way ready to wear garments are usually finished at this point on the jacket.
Comments like these do annoy me though, they are usually quoted by tailors that have been taught how to make a garment one way only, and that way is LAW!
The true fact is you can go into 10 different tailoring workrooms, see 10 different workmen all making garments different ways.
However the finished outward appearance of the 10 finished garments is practically the same.
This is just one example of this.
The next picture shows this jacket is not an engineered garment, it was made the same as all my Bespoke jackets, the full open coat method.
It is purely that I prefer to finish the bottom of my facing in this particular way, it detracts nothing from the jacket, or the quality of the jacket.
You can see the lining is hand felled, and in my opinion, which is why I do finish my facing this way, it is neater AND less bulky at this point.
There is no snipping of the cloth facing to turn under and fell, or the chance a raw edge of the snipped facing creeping out onto the outside, or seen side of the jacket.
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