recent tailoring and family trips
Published: Saturday, October 27th 2007
I have been very busy of late, but here is a few tailoring bits I have been doing.
The first picture shows a canvas I have made for a clients jacket, the client has a very full chest and this is represented by the shape of the canvas.
The canvas sits on the table showing the chest fullness, and the shape required for this clients figure.
You can see the machining I have done in three places, this is to fix the 'wedges', or the slits in the canvas open.
When these wedges are opened out, it gives the canvas more length in these areas, and creates the shape for the canvas form to match the clients chest.
The next picture shows the jacket front with the above canvas inserted, the pockets are in but you can't see them here.
The lapels are just roughed out shape wise at this point, and need sewing around.
The cloth for this jacket is Porter and Hardings from their Glorious 12th bunch, a nice blue over check on top of a green herringbone 12oz fabric.
The next picture shows the jacket further along the making, the peaked lapels have been sewn around and made, then pressed over for the lapel break.
The last picture for this jacket, a closer shot of the fabric, shows the shoulder stretched, and the front scye of the jacket. You can see the thread marks along the shoulder inlay.
The next pictures show another Porter and Harding cloth to be made into an odd jacket. The fabric is an 18oz all wool, brown herringbone, Glen Royal bunch very nice and very durable.
The next picture shows the jacket marked in ready for cutting. The brief for this jacket was to make it a little easier than the full bespoke suit I recently made for this customer.
The 'sizing up' of the pattern can be seen, the inside chalk marks on the cloth are the original markings as per my clients own individual pattern.
The outside chalk marks are the new ones I shall actually cut along, making the jacket easier, and more comfortable to wear.
The next picture shows the left forepart waiting for the back attaching at the side seam, and shoulder to prepare for jacket for the try-on.
The nice shape created from the canvas chest piece can be seen.
The next picture shows the jacket fitted up ready for trying on.
Fitting has actually been done on this coat, so we are now going straight to finish with it from here.
The jacket will have an out breast welt, patch lower pockets, with flaps, three button cuffs, notch lapel.
This jacket will be an odd day to day jacket for my client, so he decided to have it fused, as opposed to fully bespoke. The finished result will be an extremely nice, smart jacket.
The next picture shows a Scabal super 150's cloth, this is very expensive fabric.
Even though I do prefer to use my local merchants, I do get the odd client wanting named fabrics.
I pick what I consider to be the best quality, and best value for money bunches from the 'big' merchants for my clients when they request these fabrics.
The sharp eyed can see this very same fabric being made elsewhere on this blog!
The next picture shows the back shot of one of my clients in a jacket I made for him very recently.
The shoulders are totally natural, nothing in them at all, slightly fitted waist, and a little front drape.
Because of time restraints, this jacket was made straight to finish without any fittings, and when I delivered it with my wife and daughter, my client wore it out to lunch with us!
I had made one suit for this client before, so we had a good pattern already laid down for him.
The next picture shows me working yet more hand button holes!
The holes I am working are on a grey 13oz herringbone, 3 peice suit, the owner of the suit, is pictured above in the tweed jacket!
The next picture shows Louisa helping me and the owner of the tweed jacket, and the above suit, select a fabric for his next venture!
The next pictures show a waistcoat I am making. The waistcoat has lapels and a collar, and slanted flaps, a closer shot of one of the flaps is below.
This waistcoat is waiting for the inside lining to be put in at this point, which will have an inside inbreast pocket.
The next picture shows my wife, Julie and daughter Louisa at the pub where we had lunch with my client, the owner of the tweed jacket above.
The next picture shows Thomas at the local Army Barracks stood in front of one of the 'drops' vehicles.
I had to call into the Centre to see some of my mates.
The next picture shows me out with some of my friends from the Barracks.
From left, big 'Dick', John Heggie, myself and John Armstrong. The person behind the bar took the out of focus picture!
The next picture shows a beautifull shot of the Chrysler Building I took on my recent US trip.
It was early morning and as bright as a button, as you can see.
The next pictures show Thomas, Julie and Louisa when we went to Whitby, North Yorkshire.
The first picture is Thomas half way down the world famous 199 steps at Whitby Abbey.
The second picture is taken from the other side of the harbour, the Abbey is in the background.
The third picture shows Thomas in front of one of the replica tall ships berthed in Whitby Harbour. These ships sail all over the world, they are working replicas and Thomas had a tour around this ship.
And the fourth picture is Julie and Louisa on one of the fair rides. This was actually taken at Scarborough, which is where we went after visitng Whitby.
So, there it is, some of my recent work and play!
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