london lounge gun club cloth

Published: Sunday, June 24th 2007

I SHALL BE RETURNING TO NEW YORK AND ATLANTA VERY SHORTLY, DATES TO BE POSTED SOON.

PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME WHILST I AM IN NEW YORK OR ATLANTA.

des@desmerrionbespoketailor.com

I have just cut and fitted up this London Lounge cloth for a client's first fitting.

The fabric is a 'gun club' pattern orange/brown main with black and green smaller check's and finished with a prominent red over check a very nice cloth and a good weight.

The picture below shows the clients jacket marked in ready for cutting out.

This is a jacket only and because of the large check pattern I shall cut a one piece forepart with this jacket to preserve the complete matching of the cloth. The one piece forepart is to the left on the jacket lay.

It is a little hard to pick the smaller colours out from this picture but they are quite vivid in 'the flesh'. 

 

Below is a picture of the front of the jacket worn by my client.

Not too bad for a skeleton baste no major drama's to worry about and not much, if anything to correct just a little 'fine tuning' really.

The jacket waist needs to come in slightly but my client does not want a very fitted waist but 'just so' a little reduction from the back drape, and the front quarters opening up slightly.

I removed both the sleeves and reduced the shoulder width while my client was in the workroom, and then re-basted the sleeves in before this picture was taken. I prefer to do my alterations in 'real time' with the client in front of me to re-try on as opposed to later.

Doing things this way takes a lot of the guess work out of the job and keeps the customer happy hopefully! and finally I think it gives a better finished fit to the garment cutting down on expensive and time consuming alterations.

There is a very slight 'drop' to the right shoulder ( left as looked at here ) but there is nothing at all in the shoulders, we may just add a little wadding to lift this shoulder end to level it or leave as is.

 

The next picture shows the back of the jacket.
 
The excessive back drape is easy to see, the sleeve fullness is not a problem, I will just re-distribute it a little towards the top of the sleeve crown and the sleeve head wadding when inserted will sort the rest out.
 
We also re-basted the jacket length shortening the coat by 1/2" so there is a 3" turn-up underneath which is causing the centre back portion over the seat to fall slightly.
 
Overall a nice and clean first fitting. I could have finished from this fitting easily but my client want's a second try-on so I will move it to a forward fitting stage
 
The reduced pictures have distorted the fabric colour and composition slightly.

 

You can comment on this entry, or read what others have written (1 comment).