finished made to measure
Published: Wednesday, December 6th 2006
I AM RETURNING TO NEW YORK IN JANUARY 2007, AND VISITING ATLANTA. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ME WHEN I VISIT.
I AM IN LONDON ON THE 11th JANUARY. PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MEET ME IN LONDON.
I have finished another one of my made to measure suits for a client yesterday.
I have today just finished the hand work on this jacket, hand sewing the armhole lining, hand sewing the edges of the jacket and hand drawing ( sewing ) the collar.
I documented this jacket a little while back when it was at the cutting and fitting stage.
There were three suits in total, two gents suits and one ladies four piece suit.
I have finished and delivered the other gents suit which was well received by the client, and was his first made to measure anything.
The picture below shows a portion of the right side of the jacket.
This particular fabric is a super 150s blend cloth from one of my local Yorkshire merchants and is much more substantial than the super 150s from the big merchants, Scabal.
I don't know why there is this difference to the cloth as I am no expert on cloth composition, It is obviously down to the fibres of the yarn to make the cloth, but yet the cloth feels as soft as any from Scabal in their 150s range.
This particular cloth also cuts, makes, drapes and finishes better than the Scabal cloth but that is only my opinion.
The jacket is not pressed off yet, ( the final pressing before delivery to my client ) I shall be doing the pressing first thing in the morning.
The edges have been hand stitched by me at this point and the collar to facing has also been hand drawn/stitched.
The picture below shows the left side of the jacket.
The jacket is a little bigger than the dummy at 42" chest and the dummy is 39" chest.
The jacket is a single breasted button 2 front with a long lapel, I must admit I do like to make a slightly longer lapel as it gives a great look to the front of the jacket.
This jacket has side vents, with slightly slanting front pocket flaps, a top out breast welt pocket and 4 real button holes on the cuff.
Remember this is a fused jacket as all my made to measure suits are, but this jacket is soft and as clean as a whistle.
I have no problem with using fusing for my made to measure suits, I am not in such an arrogant position as some to say it is nothing more than total rubbish making garments this way.
I am not so presumptuous to also think every one that comes across this website has £1,800+ to throw at a suit and if you haven't look down my nose at you as inferior, it is horses for courses.
My made to measure suits are a perfect option for my clients that do not want to jump straight into expensive fully bespoke clothing.
When I tried the client on with this jacket the first comment my client made was on the softness of the jacket and the feel of the cloth.
Nothing has been lost really with fusing this cloth.
Though many that have very little or no experience at all with fusing will surely tell me differently!
This is the inside of the jacket, a beautiful red paisley lining a real good quality one.
Bright linings are not to everyones taste but are a nice addition and a personal touch to something you are having created solely for you, so why not!
I have today prepared the second fitting for my female client who is the wife of the owner of the above suit.
I shall try and deliver this suit tomorrow and give her the second fitting with her suit.
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