reply to questions
Published: Saturday, October 14th 2006
UPDATE :- I am in New York 28th October - 1st November and staying at the Benjamin Hotel. Please email me if you would like to see me during the period in question. Please select 'America' on menu for more information.
On page 3 of my blog, I have been asked by Medwards several questions.
1:- what do I see as the future of bespoke tailoring in the UK?.
I think bespoke tailoring will grow in the UK. I believe the customer is becoming a lot more savvier regarding the purchase of expensive, or luxury goods, including suits. This is because todays client has more information at the fingertips now than ever before, the AAAC forum and others are a prime example. Clients are now through the power of the internet, able to see that expensive MTM or designer off the peg clothing are simply 'a label' and offer little in the way of individuality, exclusiveness or craftmanship. Clients with the ability to afford bespoke, or good MTM are turning away from the RTW and expressing themselves in bespoke garments imbued with their own individual style.
2:- can Savile Row survive? Does it matter.
I have no experience whatoever of Savile Row. I attended a trip to Henry Poole's whilst I was at college. I was so impressed, upon my return I applied for a job there. I was beyond apprentice and below tailor, married with a mortgage and three children to support in Yorkshire. We agreed it was impossibe financially. That was the end of that. Can SR survive? I think yes, but maybe not in the form it is now. Maybe there will be more companies working from one premises, sharing rent and overheads. There has been a steady decline due to high rents, but that is life. I would not agree to rent assistance. These are first and foremost a business and if a business cannot afford the overheads of a prime location, why should someone else subsidise you? Is Savile Row the tailoring, or the premises? Surely the inside ornamentation moves with a business?.
Savile Row takes a fair chunk of the bespoke trade and always will, it is a 'mecca', even though many establishments are branching out into the RTW market whilst at the same time complaining of the retail companies moving onto the Row doing the same. You can't have it both ways. It is also unclear to me why people 'rave' over Savile Row when they only have a minimal involvement in the garment. The rest being done by at least 6 other people and most not even on site, it IS sub division, albeit on a small scale. Granted, the quality is better than most other tailors, but, not all other tailors and the out worker scenario is exactly the same as most other tailoring establishments. Is the quality better than the many suits the world famous Montague Burton's factory at Hudson Road, Leeds made for Prince Phillip in the 50's through to the 80's and other members of the Royal Family?. All full bespoke, but, on a larger sub division system. Montague Burton's held and still do I believe, the Royal Warrant for tailoring.
Is it the prestige of having a Savile Row label inside your garment?.
I do believe if you have the iconic ' Savile Row trained' on your letterheads, your future business path IS easier and more guaranteed, people are more prepared to give you a chance, why? I don't know. Is it 'all singing and dancing'?. Are there no unhappy clients that leave Savile Row?
Surely it does not have ALL the best tailors in the world?.
I think price will become an issue, if not already. Overheads and costs have to be factored into any product. Savile Row occupies some of the most expensive 'retail' space in the world, if customers want it, they have to pay for it.
Does it matter? Even though I have made clear my personal opinion, I think it does matter!.
3:- What will be the impact of Savile Row's future on other English tailors?
I don't think any. A craft that is as personal as tailoring maintains and services customers, many for decades, if the product is good. If I keep my prices fair, if people give you a chance and look further than Savile Row, I am able to compete. Not purely on price, but as a tailor.
I look forward to my questions answered!.
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