me, ready to visit a client
Published: Friday, September 22nd 2006
I have had a few questions regarding my style of cut and shoulder. I am no slave to any style and I try my best to give the client what they want and a shape that hopefully is best for them.
I certainly do not claim to be all things to all men either.
Here I am below suited and booted ready to visit a client to conduct his fitting.
This is an older suit I made about 2 years ago. It is a full handcrafted suit cut by me made by me finished by me and pressed by me!. What other tailor can say that?
I have been everywhere in this suit, horse races, dinners, weddings, I have even cycled to the pub in it and even after all this it is still in very good shape as a Bespoke suit should be.
I tend to have the same style of jacket that I feel suits me best which is a button 2 front, centre vent at back and straight flaps.
This style of jacket really makes the suit a 'bread and butter suit' ie good for everything.
The fabric for this suit is a 13oz herringbone wool worsted and made in Yorkshire.
The cut for the jacket neck point is straight, as I prefer for myself a straight cut neck point/shoulder because my measures for a jacket are 49 chest 41 jacket waist and a back roughly 10.5 inches.
As well as these other large measures I am also 'stocky' or broad shouldered and I am certainly no shrinking violet!
A straight cut gives me the small fold of cloth ( front chest drape ) at the front of my armhole (scye)
I also cut the back of my own personal jackets with a bit of drape.
This front and back drape while not being excessive gives me a nice comfortable jacket and yet still quite fitted at the waist as I like it without compromising movement.
I have also cut the base or bottom of the armhole quite high, it cannot really be much higher as I am also quite 'thick through'.
This is a term relating to the back section on the body at the widest section under the arms more or less. I hope you can get an idea from this about my finished suits.
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